5 Day Ice School – Comprehensive
The 5 Day Ice School is a combination of all introductory courses offered with an additional two multi pitch days of guiding, coaching and instruction. For detailed information on the Day 1, Day 2, and Day 3 course description, logistics and agenda read through the Day 1-3 Ice School pages.
The 5 Day course trains student to:
Become efficient multi pitch climbers
Lead multi pitch ice
o Proper screw placement and location o Belay selection
o Organize and manage belays
o Terrain choice
o Rope management
o Different descent techniques o Safe and efficient V threading
Rope Systems oSingle oTwin
oDouble Optional Course
Avalanche Skills Training level 1 Certification. An industry recognized Canadian Avalanche Association course
*The AST 1 Avalanche course requires an extra two days of schooling to gain recognized certification.
Students are exposed to multiple back to back days of multi pitch ice climbing in the Canadian Rockies.
Multi pitch ice routes climbed are world renowned
Cascade Falls, 300m WI 3
Professors Falls 280, WI 4
Coire Dubh, 550m WI 3 5.7
Guinness Gully 245m WI 4
Massey’s 140m WI 4
Murchison Falls 180m WI 4+
Weeping Wall Lower
• Left Hand 180m,WI 4
• Central Pillar 180m, W1 5+ • Right Hand 180m, WI 5
Louise Falls 110m WI 4-5
Spray River Falls 170m, WI 5
The Replicant 145m WI 5-6
Polar Circus 500m, WI 5
Nemesis 160m WI 6
Pilsner Pillar 215m WI 6
Students can expect sustained climbing at grade 3-5. Routes three to eight pitches in
length. Students also will have the option and opportunity to second a classic grade 5-6 multi pitch ice route on the final day.
Location meeting place:
- Tim Horton’s, Banff, Alberta
- Bagel Co., Canmore Alberta
- Laggen Bakery, Lake Louise, Alberta
- Jitas Café, Golden, BC
Day 1 and 2 Logistics and agenda:
Meeting Location: 8:00 am at chosen location. Request desired meeting location on
For full details on Day 1 and Day 2 course overview, description, logistics and agenda
read through 2 Day Ice School.
Day 3,4 and 5 Logistics and agenda:
Meeting Location: 6:00 am at chosen location. Request desired meeting location on registration form.
Drive to chosen multi pitch climb parking area
Hike to multi pitch. About 1 hour. At base of climb by 8:00 am
Gear up and start the pitched climbing.
o Each pitch can take approximately 30 minutes. o Multi pitch process goes like this:
The guide climbs first, student belays
Guide builds anchors, brings all remaining rope in. Guide puts
student on belay.
Student climbs the pitch to the guide
Guide secures student to the anchor
Student puts guide on belay for the next pitch
The process is then repeated in this order to the top of climb.
Climb 3 to 5 consecutive pitches with continual instruction and guiding
o There is time at belays to snack and drink tea. The belay area of each
pitch usually has a comfortable ledge to get instruction, belay from and
Top the climb out by 1:00 pm. Hi five, enjoy the view, take some photos, eat some
food/drink. For approximately 20 minutes.
Start descent. Rappelling or walk off. Usually will take up to 1.5 hours to
descend back to base of climb.
Gather belongings from the base and hike back to car park.
Length: 8-10 hrs. The multi pitch days will utilize all available daylight hours. Students should be prepared for an additional two full days of hiking, climbing, descending. Multi pitch climbing involves more of an approach, lengthier pitches, lead climbing/seconding, descending the waterfall and finally, hiking back to the car park.
The approximate time of being back at the car is 4:00 pm.
Day 5 there will be an opportunity for student led climb, instructor coached.
After completion of the 5 day course, those interested looking to further their experience base, go to: The Mountain Elite, Ice and Mixed Climbing Page or click here (link).