3 Day Ice School – Intro + Multi pitch
The 3 day course is the third component to the Ice School section of JonnySimms.ca. The 3 Day course builds on the 2 Day course with a day of introduction to multi pitching.
What is a multi pitch? A standard waterfall ice multi pitch route in the Canadian Rockies consists of 3 to 8 pitches of a continuous ice. Depending on difficulty, continuous can be an easy, lengthy, rambling flow of up to 400 meters or a sheer vertical waterfall of 250 meters. Multi pitch ice routes usually follow a specific water drainage or gully starting around tree line elevations and adventuring into the alpine elevation band. The multi pitch day for the 3 Day course is customized to the student’s ability, experience and fitness.
For information on the 1 Day and 2 Day intro descriptions, logistics and agenda click here, 1 Day Ice School - Intro to Ice Climbing, 2 Day Ice School – Introduction to Ice Climbing.
For Day 3 of the 3 Day Ice School:
Day 3 involves a fully guided multi pitch day out in the Rockies on a classic grade 3 or 4 waterfall ice route. The waterfall ice route can be up to five pitches in length.
Learn how to:
- Multi pitch climb
- Multi pitch verbal commands
- Multi pitch rope and belay systems
- Observe and belay the lead climber
- Second the multi pitch
- Descend a multi pitch waterfall
- Climb a grade 3 or 4 multi pitch classic.
Day 3 of Ice School is a fully guided multi pitch day out in the Rockies on a classic grade 4 waterfall ice route. The waterfall ice route can be up to five pitches in length.
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Ice Routes used on Day 3 are: (Get correct grades and lengths from books)
- Louise Falls, Lake Louise, AB.
- Guinness Gully, Field BC
- Core Dube, Canmore, AB
- Weeping Wall, Ice field’s Parkway, AB
- Cascade Falls, Banff, AB
Location meeting places:
- Tim Horton’s, Banff, Alberta
- Bagel Co., Canmore Alberta
- Laggen’s Bakery, Lake Louise, Alberta
- Jitas Café, Golden, BC
Logistics: At meeting place at 8:00am. Request desired meeting location on registration form.
- Waiver
- Gear Check
Day 1 logistics:
Meeting Location: 8:00 am
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Drive to chosen ice climbing venue. The drive to one of the available areas will take approximately 10-30 minutes.
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Hike to crag. Length of hike to crag is approximately 30 minutes on a well used trail.
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Spend the majority of the day at the crag building skills and climbing.
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There is no given lunch time. Guests can eat and snack through out the day.
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At approximately 3:00 pm, hike out to car park.
The A.M. agenda of Day 1 consists of instruction on:
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Ice climbing gear
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Knots
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Belaying
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Ice climbing movement and skills
The P.M. agenda of Day 1:
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Ice climbing school
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Waterfall ice climbs
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Day 2 logistics:
Meeting Location: 8:00 am
• Drive to chosen ice climbing venue. The drive to one of the available areas will take approximately 10-30 minutes.
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Hike to crag. Length of hike to crag is approximately 30 minutes on a well used trail.
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Spend the majority of the day at the crag building skills and climbing.
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There is no given lunch time. Guests can eat and snack through out the day.
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At approximately 3:00 pm, hike out to car park.
The A.M. agenda of Day 2 consists of instruction on:
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Ice Anchors and screw protection
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Top Rope Anchors
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Lead Belaying
The P.M. agenda of Day 2:
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Top rope Ice climbing
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Top rope Mixed climbing
Meeting Location: 6:00 am
Day 3 Logistics:
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Drive to chosen multi pitch climb parking area
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Hike to multi pitch. 1 hour. At base of climb by 8:00 am
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Gear up and start the pitched climbing.
o Each pitch can take approximately 30 minutes. o Multi pitch process goes like this:
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The guide climbs first, student belays
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Guide builds anchors, brings all remaining rope in. Guide puts
student on belay.
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Student climbs the pitch to the guide
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Guide secures student to the anchor
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Student puts guide on belay for the next pitch
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The process is then repeated in this order to the top of climb.
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Climb 3 to 5 consecutive pitches with continual instruction and guiding
o There is time at belays to snack and drink tea. The belay area of eachpitch usually has a comfortable ledge to get instruction, belay from and
rest.
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Top the climb out by 1:00 pm. Hi five, enjoy the view, take some photos, eat some
food/drink. For approximately 20 minutes.
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Start descent. Rappelling or walk off. Usually will take up to 1.5 hours to descend back to base of climb.
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Gather belongings from the base and hike back to car park.
Day 3 Agenda:
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Gear up and start the pitched climbing.
o Each pitch can take approximately 30 minutes. o Multi pitch process goes like this:-
The guide climbs first, student belays
-
Guide builds anchors, brings all remaining rope in. Guide puts
student on belay.
-
Student climbs the pitch to the guide
-
Guide secures student to the anchor
-
Student puts guide on belay for the next pitch
-
The process is then repeated in this order to the top of climb.
-
-
Climb 3 to 5 consecutive pitches with continual instruction and guiding
o There is time at belays to snack and drink tea. The belay area of eachpitch usually has a comfortable ledge to get instruction, belay from and
rest.
-
Top the climb out by 1:00 pm. Hi five, enjoy the view, take some photos, eat some
food/drink. For approximately 20 minutes.
-
Start descent. Rappelling or walk off. Usually will take up to 1.5 hours to
descend back to base of climb.
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Gather belongings from the base and hike back to car park.
Length: 8-10 hrs. The multi pitch day will utilize all available daylight hours. Students should be prepared for a full day of hiking, climbing, descending. Multi pitch climbing involves more of an approach, lengthier pitches, lead climbing/seconding, descending the waterfall and finally, hiking back to the car park.
The approximate time of being back at the car is 4:00 pm.