Here is a list of the popular routes to choose from in the Bugaboos.
Bugaboo Spire, 3204m
Bugaboo spire was first ascended via the Kain route in 1916 by Conrad Kain.
Kain Route 4th-5.7 8 pitches. The easiest route up Bugaboo Spire. Mainly scrambling with a few pitches of real climbing to 5.7
North East Buttress 5.8, 12 pitches. The North East Buttress is the most popular rock climbing route on Bugaboo spire. It involves sustained 5.7-5.8 climbing. Totalling about 10-12 pitches of rock climbing. The asthetic position makes this route a good option. It is best to get an early start to avoid the traffic.
Snowpatch Spire, 3084m
Snowpatch Spire was first climbed in 1940 by J Arnold and R. Bedayn.
Sunshine Crack 5.10, 8 pitches. Sunshine crack is located on the North West side of Snowpatch Spire. It is a great option for experienced granite climbers who prefer to climb 5.10 and up. Sunshine is a beautifully clean, sustained climb. The majority of the climb consists mainly of hand and fist size jams. This climb is done with a later start. An afternoon of perfect cracks on clean granite in the sun. What more could a granite climber ask for?
Surf's Up, 5.10c, 8 pitches.
Surf's up offers clean crack climbing on golden granite. It is located on the south west side of snowpatch spire. The name stems from the comfortable sandy belay ledges on the upper half of the route. Surf's up offers sustained 5.10 climbing to the summit ridge. From the summit ridge, the south summit is easily accessible via some moderate scrambling. Another fine summit with incredible views.
Snowpatch route 5.7, 9 pitches.
The snowpatch route is located on the South East ridge of Snowpatch spire. It is mainly in the 5.7 range with a few 5.8 moves. The route takes climbers left line of the famous snowpatch. Excellent climbing up clean corner systems with increasing difficulty.
Buckingham Route 5.6, 7 pitches
The Buckingham route is a great intro climb to Snowpatch Spire. It's a pleasant rock climb up the south west aspect of Snowpatch.
Pigeon Spire, 3156m
Pigeon Spire was first climbed in 1930 by Paul Kaufmann and Oliver Eaton Cromwell.
West Ridge, 5.4
A classic route up the striking West ridge. Enjoy the breathtaking views of the surrounding peaks and glaciers. One of the most aesthetic routes in the Bugaboos in a spectacular position. Mainly exposed 4th class climbing with one pitch of 5.4 to the summit. An excellent route that climbs and finishes on the summit!
North Howser Tower, 3412m
The first ascent of the North tower was made in 1916 by Conrad Kain.
The Becky/Chouinard, 5.10, P15
The Becky/Chouinard is a long serious crack climb up face cracks, chimney's and corner systems on the West face. An outstanding climb. Toping out on one of the higher peaks of the Purcell Range. One of the best and most desired climbs for it's grade in the world.
Crescent Spire, 2840m
First ascended by Conrad Kain and Monroe Thorington in 1916.
McTech Arete, 5.10, P6
McTech Arete is a sustained rock climb up to 5.10b. It is a very popular route in the area due to the clean rock, aesthetic cracks, and close proximity to Applebee and the Kain Hut. This route is for experienced crack climbers who understand jamming techniques. McTech climbs to the top Crescent Spire.
Crescent Towers, 2800m
Lion's Way, 5.6, P7
This is a fantastic intro climb to the Bugaboos. Especially guests who are new to granite climbing. A short walk from the Applebee Campground. This route has mainly climbing up to 5.4 with a few short sections of 5.6. Lion's Way climbs to the summit of Crescent Tower.
Eastpost Spire, 2697m
First ascended in 1916 by Conrad Kain.
West Ridge, 4th class
One of the easier scramble climbs in the Bugaboos. This route climbs to the summit of Eastpost Spire. Providing views of the Eastern Purcell range, the local spires and the Howser towers. Perched above the Applebee Campground. The closest and easiest climb near Applebee. The aesthetic West ridge is a great introduction.