Bugaboos Summer Alpine Program

The Bugaboo range has a plethora of clean, crisp granite, crack climbs to offer climbers. Most experienced climbers have heard of this area.  It is a world class destination and not to be missed.  It is truly one the "world's great alpine rock climbing destinations".   The Bugaboo season is short.  Early July through to mid September.  Due to the harsh nature of the weather.  All other months, the Bugaboo's hold snow and are unsuitable for rock climbing.  Because of the long, harsh winter season.  Little vegetation can grow.  Making for perfect, clean, crack climbing during the summer months.

Most people have good success in the Bugaboos.  By this, I mean weather.  You will need to commit at least a week of time though.  The bugaboos generally have decent weather in July-September.  In comparison to the Fitzroy Range in Patagonia, the bugaboos have better, more predictable weather for longer stints of time.  The winds are calmer and the Bugaboos receive less precipitation. The spires are generally smaller then Patagonia spires.  The glaciers are also less crevassed and broken.  Making for safe glacier travel to get to the climbing routes.

The Bugaboo provincial park trail head is located about five hours west of Calgary, Alberta.  From the trail head, it is a two and a half hour hike to the Alpine Club of Canada Kain Hut.  From here, there are countless climbing options which start with an approach of 1 hour or more.  There are also camping options at the Applebee Campground.  Applebee is located about 1 hour above the hut.  I prefer the camping option.

There are many options for climbing in the Bugaboos for all abilities.  Mountaineering objectives to technical rock climbing.

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